The end of the age of perfection

Well its almost over, one more day (as I am reminded by my friends here) until I reach the end of my 33rd year - the age of perfection as my friend Lee always told me. Time to reflect on the year that was.

I cant complain really, about my last year. I have to say it may have been the best yet. I saw the downfall of yet another Bolivian government (Mesa in June), but the beginning of a new era in Bolivian history with the election of Evo(see previous blog). I had a great trip home to Australia and realised that, as we get older, relationships change for the better. I discovered that in times of crisis there are people in my life that I can rely on, both in Bolivia and the rest of the world. Who can forget that Australia qualified for the World Cup and lastly, I fulfilled a life long dream of going to Cuba.

Alot to pack into one year I would think. There are many downsides to traveling and living abroad. One is that you create a distance between your family and friends, the people who are most important. But on the upside, Ive been extremely fortunate to make friends from around the world and in Cochabamba, I have a community of wonderful people who have become part of my own family here in Bolivia.

So as I finish my year of perfection I feel very lucky and happy to be alive, and I know that the rest of my life can only get better.

A new era begins

This weekend has been a special weekend in the history of Bolivia. The more I talk to people, the more I realise just how important Evo´s victory was and how the road ahead is going to be difficult. I decided not to go to La Paz for the ceremonies, for a lot of reasons, but I shared this historic experience with friends here in Cochabamba.

Nick Buxton has taken some excellent photos of the ceremonies over the weekend.

Transition of Indigenous Power
On Saturday at the ancient temple of Tiwanaku, indigenous leaders handed over power to Evo in a traditional ceremony. To grasp the importance of this one has to remember that this ceremony has not been performed for 500 years. The last Incan leader to have this done was Tupak Amaru, who was eventually hung, drawn and quartered by the spanish. 500 years of discrimination and exclusion, and now the indigenous have taken their country back.

Dressed as the Sun God, Evo walked to the 4 alters around the site, there thereligiouss leaders performed the ritual of handing over power. This was a private ritual, there was television coverage only at the last table. He walked bare foot down to the Sun Gate where he spoke to over 10,000 people, pledging his promise to make Bolivia a more equal place.

Emotional Ceremony
The official ceremony on Sunday was a little less colourful, but highly emotional. He took his pledge with his left fist raised high and tears rolling down his face. This is a man who has struggled his whole life, who knows what its like to have no food on his plate and now he is President. For me, it was one of the most powerful moments I have ever witnessed.

The previous night I was talking to a Bolivian friend who I hadn't seen since I returned from holidays. When he talked about Evo, he looked so incredibly happy, in fact I had never, ever seen him look this happy. And I realised just how important Evo being President is. Sure, there are a lot of doubts that MAS will be able to make the changes necessary, but symbols are powerful here and the symbol of Evo receiving the Presidential sash yesterday was the most important event in many Bolivians lives.

Ama sua, ama qella y ama llulla
Do not steal, Do not be Lazy and Do not Lie
This ancient Incan code is what characterised Evos acceptance speech. Talking for almost 2 hours, he first asked for a minute silence to remember all those who had died in the 500 years of struggle, from Tupak Amaru to Che Guvera, to the cocaleros killed by US sponsored troops, to those fallen in October 2003. Then, in a the part of his speech where he committed his government to fighting corruption, he pointed to one of the previous corrupt Presidents of Bolivia, Jamie Paz Zamora. It was a very special moment.

Humble
He is only accepting 50% of the salary usually paid to the President and is expecting his ministers to do the same. He is not going to live in the Presidential Palace, but rather will find another, more humble house. He has been causing a bit of a stir about his clothing. He didnt wear a tie to the ceremony, in fact he never wears ties. His now famous, alpaca sweater, is being reproduced and made into a chain of "Evo Wear". He continues to show that he is still a man of the people.

Historical Moments
I am constantly reminded of how important this change in Bolivias history has been. They are little reminders like the fact that the President of Chile visited and had a meeting with Evo. There have been no diplomatic relations with Chile for many years. Every Latin American President was present, including Chavez, Lula and Kirchner. Then there was the 200,000 people from all over Bolivia who waited in the pouring rain in Plaza San Francisco in La Paz to watch the ceremony and, afterwards, to hear their President speak to them. Eduardo Galeno, the Uruguyan writer and author of "The Open Viens of Latin America" was there and spoke to the crowd. He said that Bolivia no longer lives in fear, that this will encourage people across the Americas and the world to no longer live in fear.

Personal Reflection
As I wrote in my previous blog, to be living here in Bolivia during this change is possibly one of the most hopeful and exciting things that Ive ever witnessed. Before the end of last year, when news of the riots in Australia came through and with the mess in Iraq, I had a deep feeling of despair. How much further can we stoop as humanity before we pull the world out of hell? For the first time for as long as I remember, I feel we are moving back. Albeit slowly, but the world is starting to change, and as always Bolivia is in the lead.

It might last only 6 months, but I am holding onto this feeling of hope. Its a new feeling for me and Im not going to let it go.

El Mundo Mejor es Possible

A New World is Possible

So says Fidel, in a propaganda poster I saw a lot in Cuba, but with the inauguration of Evo Morales in Bolivia on Sunday, I feel, for the first time in a very very long time, that the world is starting to change.

A lot has been written about Evo Morales, by the left and mainstream press, I'm not going to offer my own analysis but I do feel Evo needs critical support. His government will be attempting to overturn 500 years of exclusion, discrimination, and exploitation. This change does not happen overnight, and people need to give him a chance to push through his mandate.

There are many problems with MAS, but the symbol of Evo winning, for the first time in Bolivias history, a clear majority in the election, shows that people want change and are tired of struggling. There is a lot of expectation and excitement about the new government and there are thousands of people traveling to La Paz this weekend for the ceremony.

My friend Tom just got back from ToroToro (about 5 hours south east of Cochabamba), there a group of campesienos were getting ready to travel to La Paz for the inauguration. This is just a reflection of how important being there at the ceremony is to so many people.

I have lived in this amazing country for almost 3 years. I have watched in horror the brutal repression of the people of El Alto in October 2003, I have been in the Plaza Principal in Cochabamba when the tear gas canisters have exploded and listened to the people tell their stories of struggle and their demands for a better life.

Some say the election of Evo is a peaceful revolution. But lets not forget those who died in the 6 years of struggle to bring change to Bolivia. This peaceful revolution still has blood on its hands and we should never forget.

The socialist romantic in me tells me that this is a chance to build a new Bolivia, a society not based on wealth or colour of skin, and that compromise should never be given. The realist in me tells me that Bolivia has a long road ahead, that the pressures from outside and in are great, and that this is just the start of another long struggle.

For the moment I am so grateful to have the opportunity to live in this incredible country and I have become an optimist.

El Mundo Mejor es Possible, we just have to continue to fight for it.